overtime
Nov 29 2005, 11:53 AM
Anyone know someone who can help sink proof my boat. i night lunched it lst night and this morning i get a call saying my boat is sinking. ahhhhhhh what else could go wrong this season. I think its due to the fact that the original engin on the boat was lighter and was never left in the water to figure out that with a heavier engine the two drain holes in the back are already bassically underwater so when it gets water in it through screw holes or whatever it cant drain properly also i guess my buildge is not hardwired so if the the switch is off it won't buildge wich sounds funny to me cause if i step on the boat on the side with the drain hole on the side it starts builging . Im confussed and i dont wanna loose my boat anyone know anyone that could help me out that dosn't charg 50 bucks an hour i don't mind paying for a job to get fixed but i cant affor that much . anybody? Please
BLACK ADDER
Nov 29 2005, 12:34 PM
Not sure this is anything but a short-term fix,but:
1)Buy a small bilge pump and switch at Boater's World.Get two wire ends you can attach to your battery.Place in bilge.Hose goes out thro-hull fitting.You should have just by-passed the on/off switch and now have a full time system.I would also add an in-line fuse to protect your boat.Of course,if you get a lot of use out of the bilge pump you might have to purchase a trickle-type battery charger and dedicate it to keeping the charge up.
2)Another thing we have had to correct with skiffs in the past and their scuppers is to re-arrange the weight so you offset the heavier engine, keeping them (scuppers)above the water. This might involve putting a couple cinderblocks forward or some-such,to be removed when you go out.
Before spending MUCH money, i always go for the simple stuff first.
overtime
Nov 29 2005, 01:55 PM
your right thanks i think i should try that too im gonna try on thurs morning but how does a trickle charger work i don't have a shore power hookup is there something that i don't know about or are you suggesting getting an on board charger and keeping it plugged in ?
peejcj8
Nov 29 2005, 03:10 PM
If your Self bailing cockpit drain holes are under the waterline, you have problems. You will need to lighten the back of the boat, or maybe add weight to the bow. If you add weight to the bow, you still want to have a downward slope to the rear of the boat to drain your deck.
If you still have water in the boat, maybe when you get it pumped out the drains will be above the waterline.
I could not understand, did you say the pump did not work, or is it wired wrong?
What kind of boat is it? Where is it at ?
overtime
Nov 29 2005, 05:29 PM
lynnhaven boatel i think the wiring to the auto bilge is wired to the battery switch (required for botel) but the automatic should be hardwired also whats the best way to get some weight in the front without damaging when smacking into waves
its a 21 ft 1982 robalo with a 150 merc 1985 i think the drain holes are deffinitly under the water line
flyingdutchman
Nov 29 2005, 05:36 PM
QUOTE (peejcj8 @ Nov 29 2005, 04:20 PM)
If your Self bailing cockpit drain holes are under the waterline, you have problems. You will need to lighten the back of the boat, or maybe add weight to the bow. If you add weight to the bow, you still want to have a downward slope to the rear of the boat to drain your deck.
If you still have water in the boat, maybe when you get it pumped out the drains will be above the waterline.
I could not understand, did you say the pump did not work, or is it wired wrong?
What kind of boat is it? Where is it at ?
Hey overtime, you could also try those scuppers with the little balls built in.
It looks like a ping pong ball that floats and if it goes below waterline it rises and closes the hole. after we put those on our boat the water problem went away.
good luck,peter.
overtime
Nov 29 2005, 05:58 PM
those are actually the problem once the balls get touched by the water line they push against the opening making it imposible for water to get out the only solution to those i believe is moving the holes 4 or 5 inches up and covering the old with marin text. I actually dont care for the ball type any kinda trash can hold them open and the next thing you know your actually letting in water especially those pescy beer caps that you trow on the floor cause you just got hooked up
Mega Bite
Nov 29 2005, 08:37 PM
Once the balls touch the waterline its all over for me,its back to the barn after that.
peejcj8
Nov 29 2005, 09:19 PM
I do not understand how a 150 can put that boat past the limit in the stern. It would seem a 21ft should take a 150. What came off of it a 115?
Those older boats had lower decks, my 79 Albemarle will take in water onto the deck from the deck drains, if 2 big guys are standing in the back, but it just comes onto the deck, it does not leak into the bilge.
You should try and keep the deck water from entering the bilge, by sealing holes in the deck.
You can add weight to the front to keep it from taking on water in a slip, but a boat that size, your right it might not be safe runing.
BLACK ADDER
Nov 30 2005, 07:56 AM
Also have the "Ping Pong Ball"scuppers on the skiff,which I hate.I plugged ours (a boat that stays in the water) and depend on the bilge pump, which sometimes still leaves some water in the bilge.
How much gear and stuff have you got stored aft? Can you move more stuff forward?CAN YOU JUST TAKE SOME STUFF OFF THE BOAT?I have a constant struggle with Dr Wright in keeping his boats from being jammed with gear.For example, Therapy has over two hundred pounds in lead weights aboard.
Anyway,this has also been our problem in the past, so hope this advice helps.
Eva K
Nov 30 2005, 08:42 AM
peejcj8
Nov 30 2005, 10:26 AM
Good article Rich
Too bad it tells the ugly truth.
Im still not going to seal my scrubbers, but upgrading my pumps will be done soon. In fact I have new pumps at home right now.
Eric
overtime
Nov 30 2005, 05:34 PM
well actually there is nothing in the back of the boat there is alot of empty space and there is stuff in the cabin but just little stuff nothing heavy except an anchor or two. I agree that i think a 150 should be fine on this boat the boat is big. Its hard to imagine that a 115 would even match with my boat thats what i don't understand how the hell can these drain holes be under the water line. anyway is it safe to move them about 4 or 5 inches up?
peejcj8
Dec 1 2005, 10:40 AM
If you move them up, then they serve no purpose, water will not drain off your deck from a hole 4 inches above the deck.
Read EVA K's web link, it suggest just closing them off. You then need to have a no joke fully working redundent bilge pump system if you are out in the rain or take water onto the deck. Also you will need to have the water drain off the deck into the bilge to be pumped out.
Im not going to tell you what to do here, kind of a touchy issue, which has alot riding on it.
It is very obvious that a drain that is designed to let water flow off your deck, should not be flooding your boat with water, or be below your water line. Since it is below the water line, that also means your deck is below the waterline.
Is there anyway you have water stuck in a compartment or the wood is soaked with water?
My boat has the drains rela close to the waterline, closer than I would like. A good thing is they are a few inches above it when nobody is in the boat, so when it is in my slip, the rain water flows right on out.
One of my fears is that if it rain very heavily, I could get some water in my bilge (due to a dead battery or pump failure) that will lower the drains and cause the water to not flow out and the boat will sink.
Call around and talk to some pros and see what they say.
Eric
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