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Knot Tied

drag settings?

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Shimano says to set your drags at (one third of the line test) Example 30lb would set at 10lbs using a spring scale. Just bought a 2000 ld charter special. This came from the owners manual. Hope that this can get you a start until someone else can help. Billy k

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Billy is right on, a third of the breaking strength of the running line is a great starting point. I perfer mine a little firmer than that, and I usually do it by feel. Every time I change a bait I check the setting with my hand and adjust it by feel. Many folks actually use a scale and when they say they have 20 lbs of drag, they mean exactly that. I've never been that exact with it.

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Many years ago, I fished with a lot of old salts that used drag tight enough to keep the bait clicker quiet until there was a hit. Maybe thirty years ago, I fished with a chap named Mike that was very exact in techniques, etc. First time I ran offshore with him, I adjusted each drag as I dropped the bait back.. He was ready to KILL when he noticed what I was doing! It seems he put a spring scale on his reels after EVERY post-trip cleanup. Yours truly had never heard of such a thing, of course.

Since then, I have had occasion to use a spring scale when fishing for line-class world records with Dr.Wright. Of course, the drag setting is ultra important. But more important to ME was the knots I used in 2lb, up to 120 lb test. I never prayed so much in my life! ANDE Tournament was the line of choice, because we could get all the sizes and it was pretty much right on with the weight classification.

One of my favorite mistakes as a kid was setting my Penn Surfmaster (with Dacron line) and leaving the spool in free spool, with just the clicker on. I think I am a slow learner. It took several drum and big sharks speeding faster than the the reel could keep up and backlashing beyond imagination. Back in those days I carried a sharp sheaqth knife to protect my rods from flying over the rail, as well as NEVER tying the line to the spool. I guess it was easier to loose all yo' string back then,as there was some BIG fish. That ,of course, explains why it was so tough to get the hang of pre-setting reels with star drags. You wanted SOME drag on the reel so it wouldn't blow up, and yet you were guessing when you tightened up after the strike. Kept a boy in a praying attitude, I'll tell you!

A lot of guess-work. And our present generation of anglers are likely self-learning all these things for themselves.Again.And God bless 'em for it.

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BA, the old salts that I learned from used a hammer to set their drags. Tighter was better and the idea was when a marlin hit it would jerk his head so hard it broke his neck and all you had to do was lift him in the boat. Times, methods and gear have changed a bit since then.

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When I do actually break out a scale and check my drag settings it 1/3 the breaking strength of the mainline...I haven't used a scale in a couple of years though...all by feel at this point and I'm probably setting it a bit tight as George says.....Your terminal gear (connections, knots, swivels, hooks) are the important part of the equation...if you have total faith in your rigging, you can put some serious heat on a fish...I keep the drag pretty tight when trolling so when the line comes tight after popping the outrigger it drives the hook home !....Bob

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These guys are all right on ! Bob , Danny wants to know how you set the drag on a bent butt 80w after service ?

Todd

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These guys are all right on ! Bob , Danny wants to know how you set the drag on a bent butt 80w after service ?

Todd

 

I see how long it takes Danny to crank in a 110# Blue Fin Tuna and adjust from there.....lol...Bob

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